“I hate when chefs let that froufrou s-t overshadow the ingredients.
Everything’s fresh, but nothing fancy,” she says. It’s all about building a community, both at Cockatoo and in the larger Gayborhood and city, and it resonates perfectly with Miro. That vibe extends to the menu, which drives home Cockatoo’s purpose as a welcoming queer space that serves straightforward, rustic-style Latin street food, ideal for sharing with friends. The perfect place, owner Ram Krishnan decided, for a playful, beautiful, and fun vibe. It boasts floor-to-ceiling windows, swirling songbird murals, and a second-floor bar with a retractable roof. One of Philly’s two new LGBTQ+ bars owned by people of color, Cockatoo spread its wings in fall 2020. Rising like a phoenix from what used to be the French-inspired Maison 208 restaurant, Cockatoo is part of a new wave in Philly’s famous “Gayborhood,” which is lovingly referred to by this nickname and commemorated for its important cultural role while also being home to many of the city’s LGBTQ+ establishments, including the William Way LGBT Community Center. With her carefully maintained undercut hairstyle, Harry Potter glasses, and infectious laugh, Miro may seem shy at first, but she exudes a warmth that rivals her famous Latin-inspired small plates. At Cockatoo, the airy, gorgeously designed Philadelphia gay bar, you can often catch a glimpse of head chef Jess Miro through the open kitchen window.
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